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Coco Said: “Imitation Is The Highest Form Of Flattery”

Indie designers all over are trying out something new with their lines: flattery. Designers like Marc Jacobs, Chanel, YSL, and Louis Vuitton are finding their logos showing up on tees and bags that they didn’t create. I’m not talking about Canal Street knock-offs, I’m talking about the clever and what I like to call ‘designer-inspired’ lines from Brian Lichtenberg, 5Preview, and other indie designers throughout the web.

Obviously, labels are going to be a little angry when these designers pay homage to their classic logos, but it doesn’t have to be all drama and nasty letters to the indies demanding them to stop production. Brian Lichtenberg created a tribute tee to Yves Saint Laurent after his death in 2008 using the classic ‘YSL’ logo, but adding an ‘RIP.’ Tributes to icons are a popular selling-point, but I think that this particular design by Brian Lichtenberg brought a classic design, a classic designer, and a thoughtful message all together to create a shirt that should not be punished for its graphic. Many of Brian’s designs have taken inspiration from Chanel (Brianel), Nike (Brian), Balenciaga (Shoe tee), and his new shirt for Blood Is The New Black, ‘Names,’ gives a shout out to Heidi Slimane, Martin Margiela, Nicolas Ghesquière, Hussein Chalayan, and Vivienne Westwood. However, he has a slew of killer designs of his own that have been worn by everyone from Lady Gaga to Lil Wayne. Personally, I love all of his work, and I don’t see the big deal with redesigning an existing design. Also, these designers are not selling their work as the original designer’s work, like a knock off would. Brian Lichtenberg is not selling Chanel, he is selling Brian Lichtenberg, and I am loving it.

5Preview is another indie label worth mentioning in the world of designer label homage. Their bags and tees frequently use Chanel or Marc Jacobs inspirations with their own 5Preview characters and sayings. My personal favorite is the “Coco says: Imitation is the highest form of flattery” shirt and tote bag, because it simply states that many mainstream labels do not mind their logos being reused. Their blog quoted on the use of Chanel, Cs, and 5s:

“I got one letter from CHANEL where they told me they weren’t so happy about what we were doing. I said I was sorry and that 5preview is so much more. Things moved on and then I got another letter from CHANEL and they weren’t so nice anymore so I kind of got it. Basta. No more C:s and no more 5:s cos they got all that shit registered…

…We got an audience that wore / wears 5preview NOT because some of the prints looks like CHANEL but because it’s a TRIBUTE to the French brand, or an ironic statement or I don’t know why people liked that stuff so much.”

It makes sense, no one likes a copy cat, designers don’t like their hard work being sold for less, but like the folks at 5Preview, I think it’s tribute, not knock-off. Like Brian Lichtenberg, 5Preview creates and works hard on their own designs to make up for the few haters out there that think logos only belong in department stores and on 5th Avenue."

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